Israeli shawarma spot makes NY Times best list

"Spice Brothers," a Manhattan eatery co-founded by former Israeli kibbutz member Lior Lev, has been named one of the 14 best new restaurants in New York for 2024 by The New York Times.

Renowned food critic Pete Wells, who recently announced his retirement due to health issues, praised Lev and his business partner, David Malachi, for their inventive use of spices across their menu, which features labneh, fries, falafel, and spit-roasted shawarma.

“Cumin, turmeric, allspice, cinnamon, dill, and about a dozen other seasonings come at you from all the directions you’d expect and a few that you wouldn’t,” Wells wrote. He also highlighted the eatery’s tahini, custom-made in Israel to Lev’s specifications using traditional millstones, describing its flavor as if “the sesame seeds had been roasted right before my eyes.”

The recognition follows Wells’ earlier review in July, where he awarded "Spice Brothers" two out of three stars, calling it a “showcase for the power of cinnamon, turmeric, and other flavors of the Middle East.”

Reacting to the honor, Lev told Ynet: “I’m in shock. As a devoted reader of The New York Times food section, I know how hard it is to stand out. There are so many restaurants in New York, and I can’t believe I’m even on anyone’s radar. Shawarma isn’t the first thing that comes to mind here when talking about fine dining.”

* Ynet contributed to this article.